Showing posts with label Supplied Art. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Supplied Art. Show all posts

Tuesday, September 8, 2009

What a fake invoice can teach about color perception and graphic design best practices

Below is a fake invoice that was sent out in the hopes that the receiver - likely a secretary in a large business - would pay, since it appears legitimate and is for a relatively small amount.

Click on images to enlarge

Note that all the commands to pay use colors that have a strong tonal contrast with their background – white against dark blue, black against light blue or white. However, the disclaimer that reveals that this is not an actual invoice but a solicitation to accept an advertising offer is printed using color contrast rather than tonal contrast – yellow lettering against a blue background.
The designer of this "invoice" has effectively leveraged an aspect of human vision that puts a priority on tonal contrast rather than color contrast. By making the tone of the yellow disclaimer virtually identical to the screen tint of the blue background – the text effectively disappears, or at best becomes very hard to see/read.
Less sophisticated designers usually, and wrongly, believe that color contrast is a way to make text stand out from its background, i.e. they typically believe that the color contrast of yellow against a blue background should make text stand out and be more readable.
Interestingly, the give-away, in this example, is that a slight misregistration of the yellow text against the light blue background has increased the contrast of the letter edges slightly and made the disclaimer, just barely, more visible/readable.

Monday, July 6, 2009

Naming Image Files

When I managed a prepress scanning department that handled thousands of images, I used a simple naming convention that anyone (even creatives) can use which practically made the images organize themselves - and avoided incorrectly formatted images from being placed into page layouts or used for the wrong application.

The naming convention followed this coding format:where the first letter of the image mode and the first letter of how the image was purposed are used as the first two letters of the image name. By naming image files this way, whenever a folder containing images is viewed by name, the images will be automatically grouped according to their mode which makes choosing the correct image format very simple.
It also used a descriptive name that was logical enough to be searched on. I used a date code in the name so that as the image went through the editing/revision cycle I would save the updated images with the new date in the name. This meant that I had copies of the image that tracked the revisions done to it with the most recent version of the image being the one with the most recent date in its name. This avoided using the ambiguous term "Final," "Final v2," "Latest Final" etc. in the image name.

Image mode codes:
R = R
GB
C = CMYK
G = Greyscale
B = Bilevel/Bitmap
M = Monotone
D = Duotone
T = Tritone
I = Indexed

Destination/purposing codes:
P
= Publication/SWOP
S = Sheetfed/GRACoL
N = Newspaper/SNAP
F = Flexo/FIRST
W = Web
D = Display Inkjet
B = Backlit Inkjet

Some examples showing how the codes are used in practice to easily identify/describe the image:

GN_Sydney_Harbor_Australia_201008.tif = Greyscale image purposed for Newspaper reproduction.

RW_Sydney_Harbor_Australia_201008.jpg = RGB image purposed for use on a Web site.

CP_Sydney_Harbor_Australia_201008.tif = CMYK image separated for use in a magazine.

B_Sydney_Harbor_Australia_201008.jpg = Bilevel/Bitmap image.

MF_Sydney_Harbor_Australia_201008.eps = Monotone/single color image prepared for Flexographic printing.

DS_Sydney_Harbor_Australia_201008.eps = Duotone/two color image prepared for Sheetfed printing.

IW_Sydney_Harbor_Australia_201008.gif = Index mode image prepared for posting on a Web site.

In some cases I would add the word "TOSS" to the image name:CP_Sydney_Harbor_Australia_201008_TOSS.jpg = CMYK image prepared for Publication. "TOSS" signified that the image could be trashed/erased if hard drive space was needed.

Sunday, May 31, 2009

How to reveal DSLR dust bunnies

This is a tip you may want to pass on to your customers to help them provide better originals for you to work with.

Many of the original images for print are now created with digital cameras rather than scans of transparencies. Unfortunately, pro DSLR cameras with their interchangeable lenses are susceptible to "dust bunnies" - particles of dust that settle on the glass plate in front of the sensor and show up as shadows in the final digital image. Often, these shadows are not noticed until the press is running. In this sample, a promotional still shot from the upcoming "Transformers: Revenge of the Fallen" movie, several dust bunnies have made their way into the image. Here is the original:
Click on images to enlarge
To reveal the dust bunnies using PhotoShop, create a duplicate layer of the image then go to the "Menu", select "Image"/"Adjustments" and the "Equalize" option.
This exaggerates the visibility of the dust bunnies. Making them more visible makes it easier to clone 'em out of the original image. Click on the image below to see the dust bunnies (where the arrows are pointing) more clearly.The original image was downloaded from HERE

Wednesday, May 20, 2009

The creative design/production process

The creative design/production process step-by-step:

• Receive the design brief
• Create rough concepts
• Get signed approval to proceed
• Schedule and attend the photo shoot
• Review images and layout with client and various stakeholders
• Select the images and contract any photo retouching
• Check proofs to confirm correctness of retouching
• Create the finished layout
• Preflight the job
• Proof the job – get approvals
• Make revisions as required
• Proof the job and get sign-off
• Go to press
• Go to bindery
• Complete mail drops/distribution• Oooops! notice the leftover layer section clipping path effect
• Hit the bar
• Edit portfolio
• Update résumé
• Pick up a copy of the Atlanta Social Season magazine• Arrgggghh!!!!

(Images courtesy of PhotoShopDisasters.com)

Friday, April 17, 2009

Image resolution for printing - LPI vs DPI a.k.a. LPI vs PPI a.k.a. LPI vs SPI

Background - pixels make the original image

A digital "raster" image acquired from a scanner, a digital camera, or created directly in a "paint" application like Adobe Photoshop is made up of a mosaic of "pixels" (picture elements)."
Here is an original image at actual size:

Here is a close up view showing the actual pixels that form the image:

The physical size of the image is described by two numbers which can be expressed two ways:

1) The number of pixels per inch/centimeter.
and
2) The number of pixels in both horizontal and vertical dimensions.

Or:

1) The number of pixels per inch/centimeter.
and
2) The horizontal and vertical dimensions expressed in inches/centimeters.

Those are just two ways of saying the same thing.
Here is the original image with a dialog box showing its dimensions:

Note that the dimensions have a "lock" icon beside them. This is because the relationship of pixels per inch (ppi) and vertical/horizontal size are "locked" together. Changing one changes the other as you can see in the below dialog boxes (click on image to enlarge):

Note that as the resolution is changed (from 600 to 300 and 300 to 150 pixels per inch) only the density of the pixels changes, not the number of total pixels in the image, in this case 1412 pixels x 2028 pixels, therefore the file size remains the same. Put another way, each time the resolution in ppi is increased, or lowered, the physical image size changes but the total number of pixels forming the image (and hence the detail) remains the same.

Note that I use the term "pixels per inch" - ppi. Very often the term that is used is "dots per inch" or dpi. Technically the terms are not interchangeable - however, in daily usage, when speaking about digital images the terms are considered as meaning the same thing. You may sometimes hear the term "spi" - samples per inch. This refers to a scanner's resolution - i.e. it ability to acquire an image at so many samples per inch (e.g. 300 spi). Again, in practical usage, when speaking about digital images - ppi, dpi, and spi can be understood as meaning the same thing.

Interestingly, digital cameras typically do not have a resolution assigned to them.

Instead a digital camera captures data based on the "megapixel" ability of its CCD sensor. For example, a 14.2 megapixel camera might capture an image that's 4592 pixels by 3056 pixels, which equals 14,033,152 total pixels. When you open the file into an image-editing program a resolution must be assigned to the file. Most programs, including Photoshop, use 72 ppi as the default resolution.

Background - halftone dots make the image reproduction

Because printing presses can only lay down 100% ink or 0% ink, digital images acquired from scanners, digital cameras, or created directly in "paint" applications need to be converted into a binary (on/off) format. This is done through a process called halftone screening. The result is that the image will be converted to dots of either 100% or 0% ink with the original tones being simulated, in this case, by the size of the dots. Bigger dots represent darker tones - smaller dots represent lighter tones:

The fineness of the screen, and hence the level of detail in the original that can be preserved, is determined by how densely packed the dots are and is indirectly described by how many rows - or lines of dots are used per inch (or centimeter) to create the image. These virtual lines are highlighted in red below:
In this example the image is made up of 85 lines of dots per inch – expressed more commonly as an 85 lines per inch halftone - or more simply stated: an 85 lpi halftone image.

The key thing to remember is that although the halftone image is made up of dots - the level of detail that it can reproduce is described in terms of lpi NOT dpi.
So, original image pixel density/detail = ppi, spi, or dpi. Halftone reproduction dot density/detail = lpi.


Of course, in order to pack more lines of dots into an inch - the smaller the dots become and hence the greater amount of image detail that is preserved.

40 lpi halftone:

100 lpi halftone:

200 lpi halftone:


It is the relationship of how densely packed the original pixels are (see part 1) compared to the frequency of lines per inch of the halftone screen dots that determines what image resolution is appropriate for its reproduction in print.

The relationship between dpi/ppi and lpi for
grayscale
images


The guiding principle for understanding what original image resolution (ppi/dpi) is needed compared to the halftone screen (lpi) that will be used is that the image pixels should always be more densely packed (ppi/dpi) than the detail resolving ability (lpi) of the halftone screen that is used.

To illustrate this principle I'll take a section of the same image at different resolutions (ppi/dpi) and reproduce it using the same 150 lpi halftone screen:

Original 75 ppi/dpi - halftone screen 150 lpi:
Here the image ppi/dpi is one half of the halftone screen resolution (lpi). As a result the halftone reproduces the individual pixels of the original. This visible artifact is termed "staircasing," the "jaggies," or "pixelation."

Original 100 ppi/dpi - halftone screen 150 lpi:
Here the image ppi/dpi is two thirds of the halftone screen resolution (lpi). As a result the halftone still reproduces the individual pixels of the original - but they are less visible.

Original 150 ppi/dpi - halftone screen 150 lpi:
Here the image ppi/dpi is equal to the halftone screen resolution (lpi). As a result the halftone still reproduces the individual pixels of the original - but they are much less visible.

Original 225 ppi/dpi - halftone screen 150 lpi:
Here the image ppi/dpi is 1.5 times greater than the halftone screen resolution (lpi). Although some original image pixels may still be visible, in general, the halftone no longer resolves the individual pixels of the original - just the tones they represent.
This minimum required original resolution can be represented by the formula: 1.5 X lpi = ppi @ 100% reproduction.

Original 300 ppi/dpi - halftone screen 150 lpi:
Here the image ppi/dpi is twice the halftone screen resolution (lpi). As a result the halftone no longer resolves the individual pixels of the original - just the tones they represent.
This ideal required original resolution can be represented by the formula: 2 X lpi = ppi @ 100% reproduction.

Original 600 ppi/dpi - halftone screen 150 lpi:
Here the image ppi/dpi is four times the halftone screen resolution (lpi). The image file size is about 7 times larger than the 225 ppi/dpi image but provides effectively no difference in the final reproduction.

The relationship between dpi/ppi and lpi for CMYK
images


As with grayscale images, the guiding principle for understanding what original image resolution (ppi/dpi) is needed compared to the halftone screen (lpi) that will be used is that the halftone screen should not reproduce the image pixels themselves but instead the tones the pixels represent. It is worth comparing these images to their grayscale equivalents in part 3.

To illustrate this principle, I'll take a section of an image rendered at different resolutions (ppi/dpi) that has been converted from grayscale to CMYK and reproduce it using the same 150 lpi halftone screen:

Original 75 ppi/dpi - halftone screen 150 lpi:Here the image ppi/dpi is one half of the halftone screen resolution (lpi). As a result the halftone reproduces the individual pixels of the original. This visible artifact is termed "staircasing," the "jaggies," or "pixelation." That being said, the jaggies are less severe than we saw in the grayscale image at the same ppi/dpi. Also the numbers on the sail appear clearer. This suggests that it might be possible to use a lower image resolution for reproducing a CMYK image than can be used for a grayscale image.

Original 100 ppi/dpi - halftone screen 150 lpi:
Here the image ppi/dpi is two thirds of the halftone screen resolution (lpi). As a result the halftone still reproduces the individual pixels of the original - but they are less visible.

Original 150 ppi/dpi - halftone screen 150 lpi:
Here the image ppi/dpi is equal to the halftone screen resolution (lpi). Because the CMYK image is a composite of four individual halftone images it tends to lessen the visibility of the individual pixels of the original.
This minimum required original resolution for a CMYK image can be represented by the formula: lpi = ppi @ 100% reproduction.

Original 225 ppi/dpi - halftone screen 150 lpi:
Here the image ppi/dpi is 1.5 times greater than the halftone screen resolution (lpi). The halftone no longer resolves the individual pixels of the original - just the tones they represent.
This ideal original resolution can be represented by the formula: 1.5 X lpi = ppi @ 100% reproduction.

Original 300 ppi/dpi - halftone screen 150 lpi:
Here the image ppi/dpi is twice the halftone screen resolution (lpi). As a result the halftone no longer resolves the individual pixels of the original - just the tones they represent.
This maximum required original resolution can be represented by the formula: 2 X lpi = ppi @ 100% reproduction.

Original 600 ppi/dpi - halftone screen 150 lpi:
Here the image ppi/dpi is four times the halftone screen resolution (lpi). The image file size is about 7 times larger than the 225 ppi/dpi image but provides effectively no difference in the final reproduction.

The below table provides image resolution requirements for a variety of typical print applications:Note that this table refers to conventional "AM" halftone screening where the lpi signifies the dot density and hence the resolution of the halftone screen. However, there is another type of halftone screen in use which does not have a traditional lpi. Instead, this type of screening organizes the halftone dots in random appearing patterns. Below are three different vendor's offerings (click on images to enlarge):
This type of halftone is called "FM" or "Stochastic" screening (covered in other posts in this blog). Rather than indicating resolution according to "lpi" - the average actual dot size, specified in microns, of the screen pattern is used instead. Typical dot sizes are: 10 - 20 micron for commercial work, 20 - 25 micron for magazine work, and 35 micron for newspaper work. Because this type of screening has a higher average resolution than conventional AM screening - it's a good idea to use images at a higher resolution to take advantage of this screening's detail rendering capability. Typically 400 ppi/dpi for 10-20 micron FM, 300 ppi for 25 micron, and 200 ppi/dpi for 35 micron.

Image resolution "gotchas" – where things can go wrong

Whether you are targeting your images for AM or FM screening, there are at least three places where the resolution of the images may be accidently altered:

1) If the image is resized/scaled in the page layout application – it may no longer have an appropriate resolution:
2) If the image is resized/scaled when the file is converted to the PDF format – it may no longer have an appropriate resolution:
3) If the printshop's workflow is setup to resample incoming documents – they may no longer have an appropriate resolution. Most prepress RIPs are set, by default, to downsample incoming files to 300 ppi/dpi.

Friday, February 20, 2009

The Wayback View - Graphic Arts Training

Gather a group of printers around the table to discuss the business issues they face and one topic that's sure to come up is the problem of today's graphic arts training - or, more often, the lack of training in their typical customer. They'll complain that today's creatives don't know anything about what it takes to prepare art for their presses. They will share tales of designers who supply art for a company's Annual Report in PowerPoint format, or the 200-page, fully illustrated catalog created in a shareware word processor and saved across 30 floppy discs.

In today's digital world, it seems that anyone with access to a computer can call themselves a designer and the printer is expected to happily receive their files and automagically go to press with them. Unfortunately, more often than not, those files are not even close to being ready for production. Instead, the printer's prepress department must often take on the task of rebuilding the files to prepare them for the press - usually without being able to charge for this service. Print shop owners will wax nostalgic about how much better it was in "the good ol' days" when skilled technical people created press-ready artwork for them.

Interestingly, the good ol' days may not have been that different from the reality of today. Following is a short letter to the editor that appeared some 86 years ago on the topic of graphic arts training - it could have been written yesterday.


"Because I have recently declared in one of our daily papers that our system of art and graphic art education is wrong, I have been plunged, immersed, turned over and over, in hot water.

It is essential that the school of art must give the commercial artist the right preliminary training. And what should that be?

The first step is a change of outlook. It is critical that the student artist be taught that his skills must first of all serve the needs of commerce.

The next step towards making the complete commercial artist is to enable him to become thoroughly acquainted with the methods of production. One of the most serious defects in the present system is that students are pouring from the schools to join the army of work seekers and find themselves but ill-equipped to do the work they seek. Young artists who know nothing of the means by which their ideas have to be produced. It is not just now easy for them to obtain inside knowledge. Manufacturers are secretive - and often look on the creative artist with suspicion and even contempt.

The art masters, the students, the printers, and manufacturers must learn to understand each other and work together. Equip the student with the right point of view towards commerce, the right perspective, and the right technical training, and commercial art will attain new heights of achievement. And print manufacturers themselves will profit by this new relationship with the creative artist through more efficient production methods and happier results for all."

- Charles A. Farmer
- Published in Commercial Art First Series - 1923



After 80 some years, it appears that the old adage that "the more things change - the more they stay the same" still applies.

Friday, February 6, 2009

Fixing art for the web so that it can be used for print

One of challenges that face printers is dealing with substandard – for print application – art supplied by their customers. Sometimes, art that has been prepared for the web ends up in layouts intended for the press. Often, the graphics contain defects like jpeg compression artifacts or pixel noise in flat color areas. On the left is a supplied graphic at 100% and to it's right a small area enlarged to show the problem artifacts more clearly.
[Click on the image to open a larger version in a new window]The tool to get rid of the image artifacts while preserving the graphic detail is the "Smart Blur" filter in Adobe Photoshop. Below is its dialog box. You will need to experiment with the settings according to the specific image that you are working with. In general the "Radius" setting will be lower than the "Threshold" setting. The preview window shows the effect of changes you make to those settings. Sometimes, if the adjustments result in degrading the image, it's better to leave some artifacts and remove them afterwords using the clone or other tools. Always use the "High Quality" setting with "Mode: Normal."The final result – the artifacts in the graphic are cleared away while the detail of the text and art is preserved.
[Click on the image to open a larger version in a new window]